PUBS OF THE MONTH

ROYAL HOTEL, COOYAR; QUINALOW HOTEL, QUINALOW

TWO GOOD ‘UNS COME AND HELP THE UGLY BARMAID WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN

ROYAL HOTEL, COOYAR

RATED 4 OUT OF 5 HELMETS

A lifetime ago in the Negev desert I sipped sheep milk from a cup. Wat’ha, the Bedouin matriarch of this group had strained the flies out of it by pouring it over the back of her hand and allowing the warm fluid to seep between her fingers and into my cup. I drank out of courtesy. Almost enjoyed it. As we chatted the sun went down and a full moon rose and she explained to me how