Riding Off The Beaten Tourist Path In The Balkans

Riding Off The Beaten Tourist Path In The Balkans

  • News
  • July 15, 2024

Our riding skills were tested on day one alongside the Danube River.

If one word could describe the riding experience on the AMT Southeast Europe tour, it would be variety. This tour includes mountain twisties, scenic shorelines, picturesque river valleys, lush forests, and rolling hills reminiscent of Tuscany. It’s an off-the-beaten-path tour, letting riders visit places other tourists miss. Expect challenging roads, which are common in countries new to tourism.

These challenges linger in my mind from my 15-day tour a few years ago. The tour started as the world emerged from lockdowns, and all but two riders dropped out due to COVID fears. I credit AMT for operating a tour for just Jim, from Florida, and me, instead of cancelling.

A guided tour is recommended for this region due to six countries, four languages, three alphabets, and four currencies. Our guide, Tomaž, a multi-lingual Slovenian, helped us navigate and translate menus for local food and drinks. We started and ended in Belgrade, Serbia, travelling clockwise through North Macedonia, Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro.

I rode a new BMW F750 GS, similar in weight to my Honda Transalp, with modern features like ABS and traction control. Our riding skills were tested on day one alongside the Danube River and through the Serbian Carpathian foothills. Lunch at a restaurant near Golubac Fortress was the first of many tasty experiences. The Balkan cuisine borrows from various invaders, including Ottomans, Greeks, Romans, and Illyrians.

After a night in Zaječar, we rode through valleys and plains to Skopje, North Macedonia’s capital, exploring its massive central square and Alexander the Great’s statue. In Ohrid, we enjoyed a boat cruise on Lake Ohrid, stopping at the Sveti Naum monastery.

Albania was a favourite, still rustic and less touristy, with some roads suddenly turning bad without warning. We climbed the Barmashi Pass and visited Gjirokastër’s Cold War Tunnel Museum. In Sarande, we opted for a ride to Butrint, a UNESCO site, and crossed into Greece for a seaside lunch. Our ride to Tirana included coastal roads and the Llogara Pass, a technical challenge. In Tirana, Skanderbeg Square’s vibrant mishmash of styles was a highlight.

As the tour ended, we rode through Kruja, Albania’s cultural centre, and across the Kulina Pass in Kosovo. Upon returning to Belgrade, we skipped the traditional champagne toast due to COVID tests.

The camaraderie, thrilling rides, and local cuisines made the tour unforgettable. We pledged to keep in touch and still do. Jim and I continue seeking new riding adventures.

In 2024, the Intriguing Southeast Europe tours run in late spring, June 8 – 22, and autumn, September 7 – 21, starting from Belgrade, Serbia. Visit AdriaticMotoTours.com for more information.

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