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TEAR OUT MAP #34
Posted On 26 Jun 2024
Comment: Off
ACROSS THE TOP OF TAS ST HELENS TO LAUNCESTON WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR
ST HELENS
In my mind, St Helens will always be associated with crayfish. Freshly caught, these tasty crustaceans form an important ingredient for the local restaurants. However, Bicheno, further south, and St Helens are the only places where I’ve ever seen (and eaten) crayfish as a takeaway meal, wrapped in newspaper and eaten with a wooden fork. Sadly, the last time I was there the place where you could buy it was gone – maybe it was just out of season. The beaches are beautiful, and the mild climate means that this is a place where camping is almost always a pleasure. All services are available, and you might as well fuel up here.
BINALONG BAY
A short detour north from St Helens takes you to this small but almost staggeringly picturesque village. A combination of pristine bush, lichen covered granite boulders and white sandy beaches definitely gives Mother Nature a good name here. The village, really a collection of what seems to be more or less just holiday houses from the foreshore (there’s more of it inland), intrudes relatively little. Let’s hope it stays that way. I could image de rich folks deciding that Binalong Bay would make an uncrowded Byron Bay, and moving in.
Don’ read dis, rich folks! Oh, apparently Binalong hosts the Great Abalone Bake off every February – I’ve never been there for it, but doesn’t it sound good.
GOULDS COUNTRY
Off the highway a short distance to the north, this is a small timber settlement that had its heyday when tin was mined around here. It’s been called “a fine, unadulterated example of early Tasmania” and might be worth a look. There are no services.
PYENGANA
Also just off the road, Pyengana doesn’t have a pub. It is a pub.
Commonly referred to as The Pub In The Paddock, which is precisely what it is, it’s a small, pretty standard Tasmanian country pub with variable opening hours. In my experience it is rather quiet, but I suspect that tourist buses now stop there. If you get invaded, ride on to St Columbas Falls, a waterfall pleasantly set in the bush.
And don’t forget the Pyengana Café at the dairy farm. Great atmosphere, food and coffee!
WELBOROUGH
Once the Weld borough Hotel was known officially as The Worst Little Pub On The Coast (no, it’s nowhere near the coast). It was a rather run down, whimsical sort of place with obscene cartoons plastered on the wall of the bar and a steady fl ow of motorcyclists through its basic but beautifully located campground. These days it is a stop on the Tasmanian Brew and Cider Trail, known as Historic Hotel Weld borough and very fl ash indeed. It was closed when I passed through fairly recently (well, okay, it was 8.00 o’clock in the morning) so I can’t vouch for it myself but by all reports it is worth a stop – and you can drink your way all around Tasmania with the comprehensive range of beers and ciders*.
SCOTTSDALE
One of Tasmania’s most agreeable towns, Scottsdale allegedly also has the best soils in the entire island. One crop that takes full advantage of that is lavender. There are a couple of excellent if not exactly cheap café/restaurants in town, and all services are available. It’s worth taking a look at the Forest Eco Centre, I’m told, which is all about sustainable forestry. There is no point in going to Jetsonville, a few kilometres to the north, and asking for George. He doesn’t live there, and neither does his boy Elroy.
LAUNCESTON
Despite a bit of a messy one-way system, Launceston makes a good stop. It offers lots of 19th Century buildings, extensive parks and gardens and the terrific National Automobile Museum which, despite its name, has some interesting motorcycles on display. And of course there is the Boag’s Brewery, owned these days by the Japanese. Tours can be booked online and are good fun, even if they do cost $33 per person. Gulp. The Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery has some really good exhibits on Aboriginal history. If you’ve ever wondered what all the fuss is about Huon pine, take a look in the Design Centre of Tasmania.
*I am not going to insult you by carrying on about not riding after drinking. I presume you’re an adult.
