![](https://ausmotorcyclist.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/image-46.png)
BEST OF THE WEST
BREAKFAST FOR A BEAR AND A TOAD KING THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO SEE THE USA. HERE’S THE VIEW ACROSS A BELGIAN WAFFLE… WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR “Everybody needs beauty as well as bread… John Muir” Every motorcycle (and other) tour operator needs to have something special to offer. Call it a gimmick; call it whatever you will, but it serves to make the ride more interesting and the memories more vivid. Great American Motorcycle Touring’s “Skip” Schippers offers – breakfast. Not only is the cost included in your tour, but the actual breakfasts are without exception both memorable and excellent. We might have been stopping in a hillbilly café on one of the main boulevards of Los Angeles or in a cheery country kitchen in a rundown mall in Fresno but wherever we were, the food was terrific and – to put it very mildly – ample. It really is no wonder that so many Americans are the size they are. I diverged from my usual American breakfast – two eggs over easy, crisp bacon and hash browns (not those shaped patties straight from the freezer that you get here) to try a variety of dishes including Belgian waffles (!) and was not disappointed – just expanded… But goodness me, here we have arrived at the subject of food again without even mentioning the early morning armed raid in Yosemite or the sleepy near-disaster coming into Las Vegas… or, for that matter, the Case of the Criminal Bear. How to tell it all, without missing breakfast? “Begin at the beginning,” Alice in Wonderland’s King said as I recall, “and go on till you come to the end: then stop.” That’s good advice, now as then. Ah, these Harleys don’t handle badly at all…/ Room #8 has a tragic history. / A Joshua Tree in the eponymous national park. / The open road – a US speciality. / We had no trouble with police at any stage. Luckily for me. IN THE BEGINNING At 3pm on Day Zero we all gathered in the lobby of the LAX Hilton, which is where Great American Motorcycle Touring (GAMT) puts up its tour participants on the first night. The hotel has a courtesy shuttle from the airport, so there is no problem – or cost – in getting there. Taxis then took us to the nearby office of Eaglerider Motorcycles, a large American and international rental company; unlike most other operators, Skip rents bikes rather than owning them. That’s handy both because he can tap a large pool of different models, and because he doesn’t have to move bikes around the country. As tour leader he rides his own BMW K 1600 GT, and his spare H-D Road King travels in the trailer that also holds riders’ luggage. That Road King came in handy on the very first day… but I digress. Most of the riders had chosen Harleys, and not just any Harleys; John and Gayle, William and Jackie and Reg were all on Ultras. Martin and I had chosen Road Kings, and Randall was the only holdout, sticking with the Bavarian brand he owned at home and riding a BMW R 1200 GS. Both of the Road Kings wore particularly attractive paint, a two-tone green that emphasised their sleek lines. And of course the green brought to mind the affectionate nickname that the Road King enjoys among my friends. Long ago, one of them bought one and was the target of some more or less good-natured chivvying when he took it to the pub for the first time. One of these blokes came up with the name Toad King, and my mate seized on that with enthusiasm. “Toad King is right,” he said. “It only takes the right prince to hop aboard to turn it into the king of the road!” Tortured reasoning perhaps, but the nickname stuck and these days we all say Toad King, without any disparaging intention. And a couple of us own them, too; both are now jealous of that two-tone green colour scheme. Bring the Bearalong This was the first of the Best of the West with the Bear tours, and while it certainly wasn’t crowded it was well received. It looks as if we will be running another one at about the same time next year. Skip and I are working on a number of improvements, and we’ll let you know what they are. Getting to the beginning of the tour in Los Angeles is easy from Australia, and looks as if it will be cheaper in future too, as more airlines take on the route. Corralled in Antelope Slot Canyon, from left: Randall, John, Jackie, Reg, William, Frank (our driver), Skip, a Bear, Gayle and Martin. GET OUT ON THE HIGHWAY Breakfast on Day One was at Maxwell’s, a rustic-style café on Washington Boulevard. The country atmosphere is hokey, but it actually fits the food and service. Both are good, and the place was really busy – as all of Skip’s breakfast venues seemed to be. He’s not the only one who can pick good tucker, obviously… Getting out of LA was pretty simple, and without stress. Even in this giant metropolis of more than 20 million people, Sunday morning is relatively quiet. The key word here of course is “relatively”. At Skip’s suggestion we stopped at a place called “Planes of Fame” at Chino airport, a little way off Interstate 60. With its collection of mainly WW2 aircraft it is well worth a look, even though the quality of some of the displays lags behind, say, the HARS air museum at Illawarra Airport or Temora Aviation Museum. We were beginning to notice the heat now. On previous SW American trips I have always had at least one or two rainy days; this time I would almost have been grateful for rain. But it wasn’t 48 degrees yet; that came later. Climbing the ridge to Rim of the World Highway and Big Bear Lake, it […]